The goal is often to evoke you these brands that will reinvent new models of distribution or new production circuits.
Their added value is substantial: they allow to create or at least maintain and develop advanced know-how in countries with a tailoring tradition that is already very respectable.
This is the case of the Cotton Society, which as you will see seen is probably the best quality-price ratio that I have been given to see has less than 100 euros (and all in half measure).
I was able to negotiate with the brand a discount voucher of which the conditions:
Until February 04 10 € discount from 70 € order with the code JAMAISVU onhttps://goo.gl/BIvlll
For those who want to take their measurements at the Paris boutique, go to 1 rue Greffulhe, Paris 8 th
Small aside on the perfect business outfit from MENSSHIRTSSHOP: The three shirts tested are those of the offer (you have one with a costume, a tie and a belt for less than 400 euros). They will have as a bonus a Zampa di Gallina buttoning and a shift at the armhole.
To stay informed about the release of this offer, it happens here:
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“Well Dress Without Efforts”
The answers to the 5 biggest problems of the beginners, coming from my 5 years of experience.
I Creation Of Cotton Society
1 Some Way Down The Road
Before testing a brand, I look like surely the case of quite a few of you feedback on forums like Depiedencap or Engrandepompes (and sometimes hardware.fr even if it’s more chaotic). There are so many available since the brand has been in existence since 2010.
Cotton Society has had a rather unfavorable period in terms of feedback on the shop (but not on the product). And of course I wanted to talk about it frankly with Fabrice, the founder of the brand and Guillaume, the store manager who explained me more and who were able to make changes in the team to correct these Worries.
The results have been shown fairly quickly with much better feedback over the last few months.
2 Wear Your Shirt Halfway.
Contrary to what one may think, when you receive the shirt as it is, it will not necessarily have a perfect fit. And Guillaume will advise you to wear it a bit and wait at least a wash before you make a real idea on the fit. (Tip depends on the tissue but there will often be a very slight shrinkage)
This is not necessarily obvious because many customers of the brand do not have the reflex to resume an appointment a few weeks later in order to carry out these adjustments which will make a real difference in the end on the final rendering.
(The finding is valid for the half-measure in general, but it is certainly noticed more in Cotton Society since the accessible price necessarily leads to many first purchases in half measure)
Ii Quality Of Fabrics And Fabrics
3 A Quality Of Finish Very Rare
Fabrice was able to identify an ultra-skilled workshop, with the contribution of Pierre Duboin (one of the old pillars of the large-scale Lanvin workshop) and Luis Penedo (largely notably at Charvet and Hermès). A level of finish that is very rarely found in China and develop there a know-how that is difficult to find elsewhere.
Here is a video made by the brand on this know-how:
It is very simple, for example, I do not think I have ever seen such strong buttonholes on a shirt, to the point where, for example, the sleeves are rather difficult to button at the beginning. An evil for a good because it avoids necessarily to have a buttonholes that breaks after only a few months. (Especially when you have a thin fabric and you often rotate your sleeves as I do.)
The other finishes are excellent with tight seams.
The montage in Italian: behind this obscure name is actually a montage that I have not seen elsewhere.
The inside of the neck is free (no glue): the heat seal is only on the outside.
This avoids the need to have a thermocollant in contact with the skin (which is too hot in summer): it is still present on the outside so that the neck keeps a real structure.
The canvas on form: I thought that ironing the fold of the collar was a normal step of ironing a shirt in order to have a collar that holds well. This is actually necessary because most shirts have a unique canvas for the collar and collar. It is therefore necessary to mark the fold during the ironing so that the neck keeps its shape.
At Cotton Society, the assembly is different because the canvas is already cut into several pieces for the collar and the foot of the collar: we see here that we have a clear separation between the two. This allows the collar to maintain its shape and natural fold even without ironing.
Angled handle: this is a personal touch of Pierre Duboin. The bottom of the sleeve is slightly skewed because it counts 1 cm more on the outside than on the inside Sleeve elbow bottom of sleeve in bias, 1cm of folds on the outside of sleeve that on the inside
Pattern matching: More explicit this time: the assembly of the different parts of the shirt respects the continuity of the patterns. This is especially visible on the striped business shirt.
And as an option: since the workshop is distinguished by its great know-how on hand-fitting, Zampa di Gallina stitching is possible on the buttons, as well as the offset at the armhole.
You will find as you will have found of the English seams with a number of points to cm very respectable for this price range.
Big innovation on the fabric: we find the Albini classics and more prestigious brands like Thomas Mason, but at the entry level you will be able to have Xinjiang cotton. It had already been discussed with the Japanese brand Kamakura: it comes as its name suggests from Xinjiang, a semi-arid province of China that allows slightly longer fibers that have little to envy the famous Egyptian cotton.
We take another step in terms of optimization: for years we have learned that we no longer rely on brand names, but rather on the intrinsic quality of products. Why not do the same for the fabrics? (And not having to pay the extra margins of a renowned spinning mill and all the agents that go with it).
It still seems a little early to do with wool, but Xinjiang cotton brings quite enough quality guarantees.
I chose for this test three fabrics (those of the perfect business suit therefore):
– a poplin of 100/2 double cotton: fine but not transparent, this popeline is an excellent compromise between softness, lightness, opacity and maintenance.
– a double 80/2 chevret: I wanted a textured fabric but an alternative to oxford
– a heavier 60/1 striped business poplin: Attention, a low titration does not necessarily mean a lower quality, but rather thicker threads and therefore a less soft fabric. Here, this popeline is actually a bit rough, but it exudes solidity. (For a business shirt that will be worn regularly, I prefer to opt for a more robust and therefore more durable fabric).
Here, I chose a specific type of collar a Cotton Society: the perfect collar. What are its characteristics? The width of the panels and the opening must be analyzed.
In terms of opening we are between the Italian pass and the French pass: just slightly open. Enough to afford both a simple tie-in-hand tie knot and a more ambitious windsor knot.
The width of the panels is fairly standard, it is a data adjusted according to your morphology and especially the length of your neck. It is in the end rather versatile, far more in any case than the classic cutaway collar.
Iii Fit And Style Advice
1 The Cup
Not much to report on the measurement: I am particularly pleased with the arms (it usually takes two fittings for my shirts half measure to have a well adjusted arm).
Only small note: the folds diagonally under the shoulders (but that I notice on all my shirts in half measure, it took me small measure to partially correct them).
Another defect: a small excess of tissue under the left armpit.
I was able to read that Xinjiang cotton shrinks slightly after washing: after a few washes at 30 it is still imperceptible for the time being.
2 Style Tips
As part of the perfect business outfit , I wore the three Cotton Society shirts with Louis Purple suits and Atelier Particulier ties.
The White Shirt
The neutrality of the white shirt made it easy to show off the discreet twill of the costume as well as the woolen flannel of the tie.
No report but I also worn it with the cashmere sweater Hircus round neck: again it allowed me to better enhance the texture, without there being too big lag as it is not Really a big stitch.
It also gives you a good overview of the perfect collar worn open.
The Striped Shirt
This is the most formal and business shirt of the lot. I wanted to wear it with the gray suit (in the same register) and the tie navy blue flannel.
The pictures are a bit dark, we had no luck with the light last Saturday. We will be back soon!
The Textured Shirt
It is here worn with the navy blue suit and the gray tie in flannel: this outfit offers less contrasts in terms of colors and will be more suitable for the contrasts skin / hair weak.
Attention by cons: here is one of the first times that I wore the shirt, with a thicker fabric. The collar was so ultra rigid and overflowing the jacket without even noticing.
I am very pleased with the finishes and fit and I was also pleasantly surprised by the variety of Xinjiang cotton available. The only downside I could see about the product concerned the shrinkage of these tissues, which I have not yet seen after a few washes at 30 degrees.
We have an excellent value for money with an ultra-sophisticated know-how not found in this price range: it is a brand that I recommend with eyes closed for half-measure less than 100 euros.